
10s Max Hangs
This is a foundational finger strength exercise that can be appropriate for climbers of all levels. We want to perform 6 high quality, high intensity hangs with good rests in between. There are 1arm or 2 arm variations.
2 Arm
You can add weight to yourself as appropriate.
Hang for 10 seconds.
Rest for 2 minutes.
Complete 6 sets.

1 Arm
You can use a pulley in your other hand to take weight off, or if you are super strong you can add weight.
Hang for 10 seconds left arm.
Rest for 1 minute.
Hang for 10 seconds right arm.
Rest for 1 minute.
Complete 6 sets.

Judging the Intensity
Judge by time: Go with the intensity that you could hold for 12 seconds at max effort.
Judge by weight: Use 85% of your max (bodyweight + weight added).