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10s Max Hangs

This is a foundational finger strength exercise that can be appropriate for climbers of all levels. We want to perform 6 high quality, high intensity hangs with good rests in between. There are 1arm or 2 arm variations.

2 Arm

You can add weight to yourself as appropriate.

  • Hang for 10 seconds.

  • Rest for 2 minutes.

  • Complete 6 sets.

1 Arm

You can use a pulley in your other hand to take weight off, or if you are super strong you can add weight.

  • Hang for 10 seconds left arm.

  • Rest for 1 minute.

  • Hang for 10 seconds right arm.

  • Rest for 1 minute.

  • Complete 6 sets.

Judging the Intensity

  • Judge by time: Go with the intensity that you could hold for 12 seconds at max effort.

  • Judge by weight: Use 85% of your max (bodyweight + weight added).

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