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20 Move Limit Circuit

Session Length: 30m-1hr Facility: Circuit Board, Bouldering Wall

The Setup

You need to set 20 moves. You can do this in the following ways:

  1. Choose or set 2-4 boulder problems. You will climb up one, down climb another (or use other holds), and then climb up the next. Repeat this until you compete 20 moves.

  2. You can set a circuit (a loop or figure 8) and go round until you reach 20 moves.

  3. If necessary you can use a pre set circuit at a but harder than your onsight grade for a 20 move route. This is normally much harder to get the intensity right.

This climbing should be sustained, without rests or very hard or low percentage cruxes. Avoid jugs and any holds that you particularly struggle on where possible. This climbing should feel hard from the first to the last move. There should be no hold where you can relax and rest.

The Training 1 Rep: Climb or attempt to climb the circuit once. 1 Set: 3-4 Reps Rest between Reps: 2-2.5 minutes ​Complete 2-3 Sets in total Rest between Sets: 8-10 minutes The intensity should be such that you should just about be able to complete all the repetitions, perhaps failing on the last rep or two on the later sets. You should generally be failing at the end of the circuit due to fatigue rather than on one "stopper" move. ​You can adjust the climbing as you go to maintain the right intensity.