Session Length: 1hr Facility: Autobelay, Leading, Toprope, Circuit Board.
Find an area of wall where you can climb for 10 mins without coming off. This can be an autobelay where you can climb down, an easy circuit board, a traverse, or just an area of wall where you can climb around. 6 grades below your onsight level is a good place to start but it will depend on your fitness. The Training You are going to stay on the wall and climb for 8 minutes at a time, trying to get to and maintain a low to moderate level of pump. If you are shaking out 1-2 times per route, then you have the level about right. Complete 4 sets of 8 minutes, resting for 8 minutes in between each one.
Tips & Adjustments As you progress you can increase the intensity of the climbing or decrease the rest time the rest.
Hard / Rest Variation You can integrate hard climbing followed by rests. You want to get pumped during the hard climbing and then recover. This is good when getting to a peak aimed at longer routes but can be more punishing so is not good to do all the time. Try to plan your rests in advance.